|
Left: This
evening coat is printed with an ancient, Middle Eastern “Tree of
Life” motif. Fortuny often referenced ancient cultures in his
work, creating garments that defied the changing trends of
fashion. / The “Delphos” dress is a thoroughly modern garment
inspired by ancient Greek costume. The design originated circa
1907 and the pleated fabric was made using a process unique to
Fortuny. Originally meant to be worn only at home, the dress
evolved into eveningwear by the 1920s.
Middle: Scattered poppies and undulating, feather-like leaves form an exotic pattern on this Art Deco textile, giving this coat a sense of dynamism and movement. A single tassel reinforces the Orientalist inspiration. Evening coats in the 1920s were often ornate, reflecting an eclectic mix of Eastern influences. Right: Orientalist inspiration is realized in a streamlined silhouette that recalls the spiral draping of an Indian sari and the glazed surface of Chinese lacquer. The gold brocaded bands emphasize this Eastern influence while highlighting the cylindrical shape of the dress, underscoring both the exoticism and modernity of this Art Deco design. 
November 27, 2007 -
May 7, 2008
Left: Mariano
Fortuny, coat, copper silk velvet, c.1920, Italy, 2007.22.1,
gift of Parker J. Collier Left: Fortuny, “Delphos” dress,
lavender silk, 1928, Italy, 83.151.1, gift of Jacqueline Weinman
Middle: Evening coat, black silk chiffon, velvet, and metallic and silk floss, c.1926, France, 73.65.5, gift of Lee Evans Right: Callot Soeurs, evening dress, black silk crepe de chine, gold lamé, and tulle, c.1924, France, 2002.87.1, museum purchase, photograph by Irving Solero
|
