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Love and War: The Weaponized Woman

 

John Galliano for Christian Dior, silk camouflage evening dress, Spring 2001, France, museum purchase.

 

 

 

John Galliano for Christian Dior

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Love and War: The Weaponized Woman
September 9 - December 16, 2006

Camouflage is an integral part of military combat gear as well as an extremely influential design motif within the world of fashion. One of the most successful designers working today, John Galliano, has brought street credibility to the venerable French fashion house of Christian Dior. By applying a military pattern to a silk evening gown, Galliano juxtaposes the iconography of warfare and sensuality. However, camouflage has many other symbolic attributes: antiwar protesters in the 1960s wore camouflage to ironic effect, while in more recent years hip-hop performers and fans have adopted it, both because army/navy surplus stores were inexpensive and because military uniforms and combat gear conveyed a tough, hyper-masculine allure. The plastic trim in brilliant emergency orange adds to the drama of this ensemble.

 

All photographs by Irving Solero, courtesy of the Museum at FIT, unless otherwise noted.

The exhibition is organized by Dr. Valerie Steele, director and chief curator; Patricia Mears, research curator; Fred Dennis, associate curator of costume; and Clare Sauro. assistant curator of accessories. It is made possible in part through the generosity of The Coby Foundation, Ltd., New York. 

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