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7. Designer Archives
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The Designer Archives of Special Collections contain over 100,000 original sketches by 20th century designers. Represented are such fashion luminaries as Pierre Balmain, Bonnie Cashin, Charles James, and Karl Lagerfeld, as well as in-house illustrations of Parisian couture for Bergdorf Goodman and Davidow, a leading American ready-to-wear manufacturer. Rendered in a variety of media including pencil, ink, and watercolor, they offer an unusual glimpse into the process of fashion design and are unique primary research materials. In many cases, what appear to the untrained eye to be simple fashion drawings, are actually detailed visual manufacturing instructions. Each line conveys information about seam placement, closures, and other sewing requirements. In addition to a front view, the sketch may include a back or side view, fabric swatches, or written notes regarding construction. Showing multiple silhouettes for each season, often the sketches evoke the spirit of the designer as well as the design. Some Designer Archives also include material other than fashion sketches, such as press clippings, publicity stills, advertisements, and fashion show invitations. These archives provide a rare opportunity to see the underpinnings of fashion publicity and promotion.
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