Madame Gres
/ The Empire Waist
Among the trends reviewed by Vogue during the 1910s was the "revival" of Empire-waist dresses, previously popular at the beginning of the nineteenth century (styles of the 1810s were also historicizing, inspired by ancient Greece in both aesthetic and philosophy).

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The pleated "Grecian" gown is the style for which Madame Grès is perhaps best known. The pleats echo the fluting of ancient columns, as well as the soft drape of classical clothing. Patricia Mears, the Museum at FIT’s Deputy Director, has questioned, however, whether Grès did not also draw inspiration from later neoclassical revivals.

Madame Grès
Off-white matte silk jersey
1944, France
The Museum at FIT, P90.20.1
Museum purchase