1. Coloring in the Lines: 18th and 19th-Century   Illustrated Books & Periodicals
 

 

  
Special Collections houses a broad array of costume books and fashion plates. Such illustrations depict more than clothing styles; they also exhibit cultural attitudes and ideals. Some of the earliest dress images first appeared in 16th-century engraved costume books. During an age of exploration, these books revealed exotic dress practices from foreign lands and the ancient past. Special Collections has many fine examples including Recueil de cent estampes (1714), an elegant costume book depicting individuals from different classes of Turkish society. These images romanticized the East and stimulated a fashion for aristocratic Europeans to dress à la turque.

The modern fashion journal first appeared in the mid-18th century, as part of a wider growth of periodical literature catering to an expanding audience. Many magazines were directed towards a female readership and regularly incorporated fashion plates. Among various outstanding examples of publications that kept readers abreast of the swift changes in French fashion are Pierre de La Mésangère’s Journal des dames et des modes (1797-1839) and John Bell’s La belle assemblée (1806-1836). La Mésangère’s Journal was the most influential fashion magazine of its time; its fashion plates were reprinted in numerous publications throughout Europe. Bell’s La belle assemblée is characterized by a high standard of typography, illustration and layout.

By the mid-19th century, improvements in the printing process, together with the growth of literacy, led to a host of inexpensive mass market magazines. The United States became a leader in the popular, illustrated magazine. With articles of interest to broader tastes and an emphasis on cover art, the modern magazine was born. The most popular cover image was the modern fashionable woman – a woman interested in self-improvement, education, and sports like bicycling. Godey’s Lady’s Book, Harper’s Bazar, Ladies' Home Journal, Vogue, and Delineator are just a few titles from Special Collections.