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Madame Alix Grès (1903-1993), was one
of the twentieth century’s most brilliant couturiers. During a career that
spanned six decades, beginning around 1930 and lasting until 1988, she
developed unique construction techniques that allowed her to craft garments
of exquisite sculptural beauty. Because Grès draped each garment by hand and
eschewed novel, thematic collections, her work has often been described –
inaccurately - as free from the quixotic dictates of fashion. The fact is
that she did keep pace with the times, but rather than merely follow general
design trends, she elevated dressmaking to an art form.
Despite the high regard in which
Madame Grès is held, the details of her innovations and the evolution of her
distinctive style remain relatively obscure. This exhibition is the first to
identify three primary styles as distinct terms in the Grès lexicon: the
classically-inspired, “Grecian” style of her pleated gowns; the “ethnic”
inspirations behind her simple, geometric designs; and the billowing,
three-dimensional quality of her “sculptural” coats and gowns. Each original
design was crafted by the couturier in solitude and draped “in the round.”
Her unique, self-taught methods of construction may lack mathematical
precision, but their technical consistency and graceful aesthetics come
undeniably from the hand of a master couturier. This exhibition is
dedicated to her incomparable achievements.
Patricia Mears, Deputy Director |
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