London has long been the bespoke tailoring capitol of the world, but

technical advancements in ready-to-wear production were

pioneered by American suit-makers, such as Brooks Brothers,

which is nearly two hundred years old. This legendary firm recently

hired Thom Browne, one of the world’s best-known tailors, to

design Black Fleece, its cutting-edge luxury line.

Browne’s inversions of tailoring elements, such as shrinking

and refitting the standard suit silhouette and blurring gender

demarcations, have been remarkably successful at this bastion of

conservative dressing.

Hisham Oumlil has infused American tailoring with a renewed

sense of luxury. He adds unusual details to men’s suits, and he

uses unorthodox fabrics, including velvet, and vibrant colors, such as royal blue.