Dressmaking & Tailoring
Tailoring for Women
Gilbert Adrian was a master of mitering, insets, and pattern manipulation. One of the most
creative tailors of women’s clothing, Adrian put seemingly endless variations of movie star
glamour on the streets of America. His
ingeniously constructed garments also
attest to his ability to utilize scarce
resources while the United States was
embroiled in World War II.
Among the most uniquely tailored garments in contemporary American fashion are Ralph
Rucci’s daywear suits. Testaments to the designer’s meticulous workmanship, Rucci’s suits
are either inset or completely made with "suspensions" — small, free-floating pieces of
fabric connected with tiny, hand-sewn bridges that Rucci calls "worms." Their overlapping,
amoeboid shapes produce a visual interplay that is stunning in its complexity.
