The Tailor's Art- The Suit in the 19th Century

THE SUIT IN THE 19TH CENTURY

While Paris remained the center of female fashion in the 19th century, London became the capital of masculine style. London also gave birth to the dandy, a male type, famously associated with George Bryan “Beau” Brummell. Lauded by the French writer, Charles Baudelaire, the dandy did much to advance the popularity and importance of dark suits. Elegant and ineffably “cool,” the dandy was a creature of immaculate grooming and reductive elegance.

An ever widening circle of men from all levels of society began to wear the suit as a symbol of authority, respectability, and both conformity and defiance. Technical advancements in production allowed manufacturers to produce ready-to-wear versions at reasonable prices. These affordable suits were worn by a broad swath of the male population, especially in the United States. Expensive custom-tailored ensembles, however, were reserved for the wealthy.

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All photographs by Irving Solero, courtesy of the Museum at FIT, unless otherwise noted.



		Introduction
		Creation of the Man’s Suit
		The Suit in the 19th Century
		Men’s Dressing Gown and Waistcoat Fabrics
		Tartan
		Passementerie
		Men’s Accessories in the 19th Century
		Neckties and Cravats
		Men’s Accessories in the 20th Century
		Tailoring for Women
		Appropriating the Dandy
		Contrast Between the Modern Suit and Feminine Fashion
		Mid-Century America: Conformity in Suburbia
		Mid-Century Humor: Conversational Textiles
		Counterculture Menswear
		Contemporary Tailoring for Men
		Menswear Fabrics - A Glossary